By Peter Shurr
Photos by Peter Shurr and Dean Engelhaupt
The White Mountains of Alaska offer an extraordinary blend of beauty and challenge, a true test for adventurers seeking both solitude and the stark wonder of the Arctic wilderness. Over four days and three nights, Dean, Douglas the dog, and I embarked on a 100-mile loop through this frozen expanse, braving extreme temperatures, relentless trails, and moments of profound beauty.
Day 1: To Crowberry Cabin
The journey began at the Wickersham Trailhead, where temperatures hovered at a brisk 4°F. Spirits were high as we set out, accompanied by Tommy for the first 11 miles. The trail was firm and fast, carrying us through rolling hills and past snow-laden trees. As we descended past Lee's Cabin, the mercury plummeted to -20°F, and the chill became an unrelenting companion.
After five hours of steady biking, we arrived at Crowberry Cabin, our home for the night. It was my first time staying there, and the cabin did not disappoint. As the evening deepened, the northern lights erupted in a mesmerizing display, their vivid greens and purples swirling across the sky. We warmed ourselves by the fire, grateful for the shelter and the celestial show.
Day 2: To Cache Mountain Cabin
Day two was a shorter stretch, covering just 11-12 miles, but it proved to be the most challenging for me. I’d aired down my tires too much, making progress agonizingly slow. Each pedal stroke felt like a monumental effort, and by the time we reached Cache Mountain Cabin, I was completely bonked.
Smoke curling from the chimney was a welcome sight, and we discovered a pair of snowmachiners inside. They’d stopped to refuel with some hot food and generously offered us their leftovers before heading back to their vehicles. Despite their kindness, the cabin itself was a disappointment, struggling to retain heat. At 2 a.m., I woke up shivering, the temperature inside having dropped below freezing.
Day 3: Over the Divide to Borealis Cabin
With temperatures at -26°F, we departed Cache Mountain Cabin for the most arduous leg of the trip: a 42-mile journey over the Cache Mountain Divide. The climb was a grind, but the trail conditions were excellent, allowing us to bike most of the ascent. The descent on the backside was exhilarating. We bombed down the trail, catching air on snowmachine bumps and reveling in the rush of adrenaline.
After four hours, we reached Windy Gap Cabin for a brief refueling stop. The Fossil Creek section, as always, was fraught with overflow and ice, and the temperatures dropped to near -40°F. The final 20 miles to Borealis-LeFevre Cabin felt daunting, but we pressed on, driven by determination and the promise of rest.
As the dim light of the alpenglow bathed the landscape, we arrived at Borealis Cabin. The cabin hadn’t been used in two days, and its interior was an icy -30°F. Dean began showing signs of hypothermia and immediately crawled into his sleeping bag. I focused on tending to the fire, building it into a roaring blaze to warm the space. Once the cabin was bearably warm, I changed into dry layers, ensuring I could keep the fire alive.
New Year’s Eve gifted us an awe-inspiring display of the aurora borealis. Though we lacked fireworks, the sky’s brilliance more than compensated. We celebrated with hearty dinners before collapsing into sleep, eager to face the final day.
Day 4: Back to the Trailhead
The morning was bitterly cold at -28°F, but we departed Borealis Cabin determined to complete our journey. The trail up Wickersham Wall was firm, allowing us to bike most of the ascent. At the summit, temperatures were 18°F warmer, prompting a quick shedding of layers.
With six miles to go, we pushed hard, exhaustion dogging our every move. Relief and triumph washed over us as we reached the trailhead and found the car’s engine responding to the remote start. The subzero temperatures hadn’t defeated it—or us. We loaded up, stoked by the accomplishment of completing the 100-mile loop in such extreme conditions.
Reflection
The White Mountains tested us in every way, demanding resilience, teamwork, and an appreciation for the unforgiving beauty of the Arctic. Dean, Douglas, and I faced the challenges head-on, emerging with unforgettable memories and a profound respect for the wilderness. This journey wasn’t just a physical feat; it was a testament to the spirit of adventure and the rewards of perseverance.
